WinterProof™ Water System Antifreeze provides you with peace of mind:
- Salt free
- Ready to use
- Formulated for various assets applications
How To Winterize Your Property
Keep your cottage plumbing system safe through harsh winters with Winterproof™ -50°F. Follow these simple steps to avoid complications and costly repairs:
Turn off the power in the hot water tank to protect the heating elements from trying to warm water that is no longer there.
Ideally, all the supply pipes will drain to one point, and the water supply lines will gradually slope down to a single set of drain valves. If your cottage is set up differently, you may have to crawl under the cottage to find out where all the pipes go and where the valves are located.
Leave all valves and the taps open over the winter so that any remaining water can drain out.
If you think there may still be water in the line from improper drainage or sagging pipes, blow any excess water back through the open taps.
If the pressure tank is located somewhere other than below your cottage, make sure the line to the cottage is also drained. The pressure tank relies on a rubber diaphragm to create and hold the pressure to push water through the plumbing lines. If water is left inside the holding tank, it will freeze and possibly destroy this rubber diaphragm, making the tank useless.
Drain the water between the pump and the pressure or gravity tank. The priming plug should also be removed and stored in a safe place. Add 500 mL (2 cups) of WinterProof™ Water System Antifreeze to the jet-pump case to protect the casing and impeller inside it from freezing. Disconnect the waterline to the pump and pull it onto the shore. Disconnect the foot valve and store it in a secure place to prevent any damage.
A drain valve installed on the waterline just above the lake’s high-water level will let you drain the line from the cottage to where the pipe enters the water, decreasing the chances of freezing and cracking over the winter.
Flush the toilet to get as much of the water out of the tank and bowl as possible. Some water will be left at the bottom that should be removed with a small cup or a sponge. Add 1 to 2 litres (4 to 8 cups) of WinterProof™ Water System Antifreeze to the bowl to prevent any remaining water from freezing and cracking the toilet, and to stop sewer gas from venting back through the toilet trap. Add another litre (4 cups) of WinterProof™ Water System Antifreeze to the tank and make sure the bottom rubber flapper in the tank is tied in the up position to prevent it from sitting in the plumbing antifreeze.
Pour 500 mL (2 cups) of WinterProof™ Water System Antifreeze down every sink and tub drain. It is normal for the product to become ‘slushy’ and freeze in sub-zero temperatures, but it will not damage the system.
Pour 1 litre (4 cups) Winterproof™ Water System Antifreeze down the shower-stall drains. The traps under the drains hold water that prevents sewer gas from coming up through the drains. If left unprotected, the pooled water in the traps may freeze and crack the traps.
Keep your RV piping and waterlines safe through harsh winters with WinterProof™ -50˚F. Follow these simple steps to avoid complications and costly repairs:
Lower the trailer slightly with the jack to allow better water flow out of the tank.
Remove the drain plug on the fresh water tank. This plug is fitted as original equipment. Your RV may already come with a drain valve or tap.
Open your kitchen sink taps, bathroom sink, and shower taps to empty all remaining water down the drain. Flush the toilet. If you have an outside shower, remember to drain that too.
Make sure your water heater is off. We don’t want to empty the water heater with the propane on and ignite it.
Drain the water heater. Locate the water heater on the outside of your trailer and open the cover. Pull up the handle on the pressure relief valve to release any pressure.
Re-insert the anode rod after the water heater is empty. It’s a good idea to apply Teflon tape or appropriate fitting compound to the fitting threads to avoid leakage. Re-insert the anode rod and tighten it.
Ensure that the black and grey water tanks are empty. Always empty the black water tank first then the grey water tank.
You want to fill the water lines in the trailer with WinterProof™ RV Water System Antifreeze. However, you do not want any antifreeze to enter the water heater.
Close both the bottom and top valves to prevent WinterProof™ RV Water System Antifreeze from entering the water heater.
Locate the fresh water tank and tube that will allow the pump to suck up antifreeze to winterize the system. If you do not have a suction tube you can purchase a winterizing kit at an RV service center.
Close the valve from the fresh water tank so WinterProof™ RV Water System Antifreeze does not enter and then open the valve to the suction tube.
Turn on your pump for fifteen seconds to let the pump run dry. Don’t overrun your pump when it’s empty.
Turn off all your taps prior to filling the lines with WinterProof™ RV Water System Antifreeze.
Place the suction tube into the jug of WinterProof™ RV Water System Antifreeze and turn on the pump. Exchange antifreeze jugs as they become empty.
Turn on both the cold and hot water taps throughout until green Winterproof™ RV Water System Antifreeze appears. You’ll want about 250 mL (1 cup) of antifreeze to run into the toilet. Open the outside shower to fill this waterline with plumbing antifreeze.
Pour about 500 mL (2 cups) of WinterProof™ RV Water System Antifreeze into the kitchen and bathroom sinks and the shower or tub drains. Clean up any spilled antifreeze. It is normal for the product to become ‘slushy’ and freeze in sub-zero temperatures, but it will not damage the system.
Keep your boat safe through the winter and ready to set sail in the spring with WinterProof™ -50˚F. Follow these steps will help you avoid complications and costly repairs:
This is a great time to clean your boat and ensure that all of the dirt, fouling, and other grunge off. It’ll be easier to clean it off now, rather than in the spring after it’s had months to sit and solidify on your boat. Our advice? Work your way inside out. Start with the cabin, saloon, etc. and move to the deck, and finally to the hull.
You can also clean and protect any exposed teak and give the topsides and exposed fibreglass a wax to ensure it’s protected over the winter and ready for the open water in the spring!
First, you’ll want to drain the crankcase oil to remove any contaminants that can corrode and damage the engine parts during storage. Before beginning, attach a set of flushing muffs to a garden hose and position them on both sides of the water intake for your motor. Turn on the water source, start your motor and allow it to run for 5-10 minutes to allow the oil to warm up. Next, turn off the motor and remove the flushing muffs.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how to properly drain the oil and change your oil filter. Once the oil has been drained, remove and change your oil filter and fill the crankcase with new oil.
Ensure you know the viscosity and quantity of gear oil that your outbound motor requires. If you don’t know check your owner’s manual.
Place a catch pan under the gear box to capture any oil that drips. Remove the bottom plug, being careful not to remove the gasket along with the plug. Once you see little bit of gear oil drip out, remove the top vent plug. This will allow the gear oil to drain freely out of the bottom hole. In good condition, gear oil should be translucent with a green tint. If water has seeped into the gear box, the oil will have a milky appearance. If you see the latter, contact a service professional for assistance.
To eliminate as much air in the gear box as possible, pump your new gear oil in upward, from the bottom hole until it overflows slightly through the top. For smaller outboard motors, you can press the nozzle of the tube of gear oil into the bottom hole and squeeze slowly into the casing until it overflows out the top. For larger outboard motors, you can follow this same process using a gear oil pump. With either type of motor, once oil overflows through the top vent hole, replace the top plug, remove the tube or pump nozzle and quickly replace the plug.
Add a fuel stabilizer and top up your fuel tank to avoid excess air in your tank. Because air holds moisture, when the temperature drops, the moisture will condense and will end up as water in the bottom of your fuel tank. This can fill your water separator and can cause problems when trying to start your boat in the spring. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the bottle of fuel stabilizer you purchase. To run the stabilized fuel through your fuel system, reattach your flushing muffs, turn on your water source, and restart the motor, allowing it to run again for 5 to 10 minutes, then shut it off.
This is also a great time to replace your fuel filter and water separator.
Time to winterize your block with plumbing antifreeze.
After allowing the motor to run for 5 to 10 minutes, per the previous step’s instructions, shut it off and disconnect the garden hose. Hook up the flushing muffs to a winterizing kit and fill the kit with WinterProof™ Marine Water System Antifreeze.
Remove the cowling to gain access to your boat’s air intakes located at the front of the engine. Open the valve to the winterizing kit and restart your motor and allow the antifreeze solution to drain into the tank. You’ll start to see the antifreeze discharging via the water that exits the motor.
While the engine is running. spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s). You may notice lower horsepower engines stall, and higher horsepower engines will cough and sputter – this is normal. Continue running the motor while spraying a decent amount of fogging oil through the intake. Discontinue the fuel line from the engine and continue to spray fogging oil into the engine until it dies. Doing this will prevent varnish deposits from building up while inactive during the winter.
If your boat has an Electronic Fuel Ignition (EFI), you need to follow a slightly different procedure for fogging. First, ensure that you’re using a fogging solution formulated for EFI motors.
Rather than fogging the cylinders, put a small amount of stabilized gasoline in a container and mix in a fogging oil formulated for EFI motors. Run a fuel line from the container to the motor and run the motor until you see white smoke exiting the exhaust. Before the winterizing kit runs dry, turn off the motor. Do not run the motor until it dies from lack of fuel as this can damage the fuel system.
If your boat has an oil-injected two-stroke motor, fill the two-stroke oil tank to avoid water condensation build up while in storage.
Finally, squeeze some fresh grease into the pivot tube and tilt tube with a grease gun, and spray a corrosion inhibitor onto the power head and replace the cowl.
Lastly, remove your boat’s propeller and inspect it for damage. Ensure that the shaft is clean and clear of debris, lubricate it with grease, and reinstall the propeller. Store the engine in an upright position to allow any water to drain from it.
With our WinterProof™ -50˚F you can avoid complications and costly repairs. Follow these easy step-by-step instructions to protect your inground pool lines from cracks and bursts:
Begin by skimming the water with a pool skimmer to remove leaves and debris and brush the walls with a pool brush. Clean the skimmer baskets and vacuum all surfaces.
Run the filter system and shock the water a few days before closing. After shocking the pool, check the water balance a few days later. The pH levels should be between 7.2 and 7.6. Increase or decrease pH levels accordingly.
If you have a heater, turn it off. Turn off the filter and set the multi-port valve to BACKWASH. Turn the filter on and let it run for 3-5 minutes, until the water in the site glass is clean. Shut off the system and turn the valve to RINSE. Run the system for 30 seconds and then turn it off. Open the pressure relief valve near the pressure gauge.
Lower the water a few inches below the skimmers or decorative tile. With the filter off, turn the valve to WASTE. Close the skimmer valves and keep the main drain open. Then turn on the filter system until the water reaches the proper level. Turn off the system.
Cartridge and Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) filter systems can be disassembled for winter storage. Sand filters do not need to be taken apart unless you are changing the sand.
Pool plumbing lines should be cleared because water left in the lines can freeze and expand causing the pipes to crack or burst. Connect an air compressor to the pool pump. Using low pressure, force out the water in the lines through the skimmer, main drain and return lines. Close-off the skimmer and returns with winterizing plugs.
Repairs can be extra costly if pool waterlines or drainpipes freeze and burst. Pool antifreeze prevents any water that might be left in the lines from freezing and cracking the pipes. Remove the winterizing plugs in the skimmers and add about 2-3 litres per line of WinterProof™ Pool Water System Antifreeze with the BurstGuard™ Guarantee -100˚F.
It is normal for the product to become ‘slushy’ and freeze in sub-zero temperatures, but it will not damage the system.
Remove the rest of the plugs on the filter system. Also remove the site glass and pressure gauge. Store them in the pump strainer basket inside the pump and cover the system.
If your pool has a heater, drain it completely before the first frost to prevent any damage from freezing water in the heater and piping.
Check the cover to make sure it is in good condition. Clear out any pool accessories. Starting at one end of the pool, unfold the tarp and pull it over the pool without it falling in the water. During the off-season, remove any water, leaves and snow from the cover.
WinterProof™ All Purpose Water System Antifreeze with BurstGuard™ Guarantee -50˚F will help you avoid complications and costly repairs:
Be safe and remember to turn off your power to your hot tub.
Your spa cover needs cleaning too! This is a great time to clean your hot tub cover with a safe cleaner and water.
If you’re going to clean and close your hot tub for the winter, you might as well do a thorough job of it and clear out your filters while you’re at it. Clean out your filter baskets with a safe cleaner and store them inside for the winter if you’re shutting down your hot tub for the season.
Use either your exterior hot tub drain (usually found along the base of the hot tub) – or if your spa doesn’t have one, you can use a submersible pump – to drain the water. First, remove the drain cap and attach a hose or piping to direct water to an area of your property that will allow it to easily flow and disperse. Once the water inside the tub is drained, leave the drain spout open.
If your hot tub has valves on the top, unthread the valves and insert a shop vac to blow water out through the jets. Run the shopvac through each of the valves until you don’t see anymore water coming through the jets.
If your spa does not offer top valve access to the pipes, locate the pumps and loosen the unions, opening the plumbing pipes. Use a shopvac to blow water through the plumbing pipes and jets.
Even small amounts of water left behind in your spa can cause cracks, so it’s important to try to get all of the water out of it. Use a shopvac or a sump pump to suck or pump the remaining water out of the footwell and seats, while using a shopvac to blow out the remaining water in the jets. Hold the shopvac over each jet for about 15-20 seconds.
Use our All Purpose Water System Antifreeze, as directed on the product label.
Once you’re done, remember to place the cover back onto your spa for the season.